Zanizbar

 Zanzibar

The ferry from Dar to Zanzibar only takes two hours.  Quite a civilised affair really compared to the mass bundle of people trying to sell tickets to mzungus outside the ticket office.. I wonder how many tickets are actually real?   Once they realise I know what I’m after – a discounted resident ticket – and I’m not your run of the mill tourist, they seem to become dis-interested and point me toward the actual ticket office with a slightly disappointed look and turn towards the nearest other mzungu.

Cheap ticket in hand (20 000TSH or £8.. try getting a Dover-Calais for that price!) ,I board the ferry with my friend Kay, another VSO volunteer based in Dar, and prepare for the worst.  .  We opted for the more reputable ferry operator, and climb aboard the clean, tidy and relatively new Kilimanjaro III ferry.  There is also a Kilimanjaro I ferry,  but no Kilimanjaro II .  I try not to think about this since only last month one of the ferries from another operator sank, with the tragic loss of many lives.  We sit at the back on the open deck, easily jump-overboard-if-you-need-to-able , just in case ;)

 

The crossing is reputed as one of the roughest stretches of water with strong currents and winds, sick bags are handed out as standard.. but thankfully they were not needed for sea sickness, although I almost needed to use one as they were playing Home Alone on the TV screen….Enough to make anyone chunder.

Two hours later we cruise into Stone Town harbou­­r, and it is as lush as expected, Blazing sunshine, crystal blue water, traditional dhow boats moored alongside modern ferries and ships and a view of Stone Town’s open seafront plazas.  (Try getting that on a Dover-Calais) 

  

We were met by Kelly, another VSO volunteer based on Zanzibar, and whisked through the swarm of taxi drivers, street sellers and chancers for an insider’s tour of Stone Town.  Winding through the narrow alleys of the town was exactly how it’s described in the guide books, with smells of incense, spices and coffee wafting past, the sound of the mosque somewhere in the distance, the tall buildings and balconies overhanging the alleyways a­­­­­­lmost blocking the light, accessed by intricately carved and ornately decorated doors and frames.  One can almost imagine stepping back in time a few hundred years…………….Except that almost every shop sold tourist-tat, the locals all speak English “welcome, come inside, buy my tourist tat” and the motorbike riders in the narrow alleys seem to think it is a game of mzungu skittles.

Stone Town Castle

 

Alleyway in Stone Town

Doorway in Stone Town

 

We stop for coffee in one of the many small plazas in Stone town, and get a small cup of thick black rocket fuel from the street seller.  A fantastic place for people watching as all the old men of the town congregate here for a chinwag.. (The Zanzibar equivalent of the allotment sheds)   I wish I understood a bit more kiswahilli, and then I could join in their bitching sessions.

Having a local “in the know” is handy we avoid the tourist traps and head for Mbweni Ruins hotel – set in some lush botanical gardens and with a private beach, mangroves and a pier, perfect for swimming in the warm ocean.  We spend the day relaxing ad sipping on cold Safari Lagers. Handily the pier faces due west, perfect for watching the sunset. Sunsets never get boring, no matter where you are in the world.  We didn’t actually see the ruins - an old chapel and school from the 1800’s, so will have to go back sometime soon (good excuse) !

 

Mbweni Ruins Hotel

Relaxing, Reading and sipping on a cold beer

Sunset - 'nuff said

The next day we take the daladala (local bus – which was just an old Leyland DAF minibus) to Jozani forest..  The journey takes just over an hour, although we wished it could have lasted longer as the daladala was pumping out old Bob Marley tunes and videos on a small LCD screen gaffa-taped to the ceiling.  Jozari forest is a protected forest, one of the few remaining patches of natural jungle that once covered the island – most has been felled over the centuries for fuel and agricultural land.  It is also home to the native Red Colobus monkeys (Interestingly, being isolated on an island they have evolved to have only 4 fingers on their hands – no thumbs… no other monkeys have this).  The chap at the visitor centre at the conservation project was somewhat surprised we arrived by bus, most mzungus arrive by 4x4 on a package tour and pay an extortionate price for the pleasure.  Our guide led us ten minutes into the forest, and we were amongst a troop of monkeys.  I was amazed at how they were not at all bothered by our presence, and carried on with their monkey business literally within touching distance.  One of the monkeys ran right in front of me (slightly disconcerting as they are pretty big buggers and all muscle!), and another sat on a log next to Kay!  It certainly beats paying a tenner to peer through a greasy glass window at Monkey World! 

Just hanging out

Monkey see Monkey do

Hey Hey, We're the Monkeys

Monkeying Around

Run out of monkey puns

After the monkeys, our guide took us to the nearby Mangrove forest.. Kay on the back of a pikipiki and me on a rickety old pushbike.  I discovered it's quite hard to ride a bike with a flat front tyre and dodgy brakes along a potholed gravel track.   The tidal saltwater mangroves are breeding grounds for many types of fish, and are another endangered habitat on the island as mangrove wood is good building material.  

As easy as riding a bike

Swampy

 

Just 1km down the road is the Jozani butterfly sanctuary – another conservation project which has taught local villagers how to farm and collect the pupae from the fifty or so species of exotic butterflies found in the forest.  The pupae are sold to collectors worldwide which provides income for the villagers and ensures that the forest is protected and the butterfly populations continue to flourish.  Part of the forest has been enclosed in netting, and you are free to walk around with the butterflies – one of them even started eating the sweat off my hand..  yummy !

Pupae Farming

Ever been licked by a Butterfly in the pale moonlight?

It's not a butterfly, it's a praying mantis

 

After 4 days relaxing in Zanzibar I returned to the hustle and bustle of Dar, and then the long drive back south to Nyangao.  It seems I was missed in Nyangao, as the next time I walked through the market there were many cries of “Mr Jamesy, You back now!”.   Yes Nyangao,  I’m back.. ...And I bought Cheese and Mince with me!   I will buy your tomatoes and make them into spaghetti bolognase, Chilli con carne and Shepard’s pie !  Mzungu in Africa!!!