African Tour Part 2 - Zambia

Part 2 – Zambia

We spent our first night in Zambia in a nice backpacker hostel in Lusaka, the capital city.. to be honest we didn’t see much of the city as we were tired from our rude awakening on the train, and we had an early start the next morning to get the bus to Livingstone. 

After spending 18 months using the crowded, dirty and often downright dangerous public transport in Tanzania, the bus to Livingstone was quite overwhelming.. A luxury coach, with air conditioning, comfy seats, leg room, no people standing, no chickens, clean, and it even smelt nice!  I’ve only taken a long distance bus once in the UK, but this one beat it hands down!  It made the seven hour journey to Livingstone very pleasant, and before we knew it we had arrived.

Livingstone is a great place and reminded me of the towns in New Zealand.  It is clear that a lot of money is made from tourism in Livingstone as it is a clean and green place, full of good restaurants and accommodation. We stayed in the superbly named Faulty Towers, although somewhat disappointingly, there was no Manuel or Basil!

Victoria falls is only about 10km from Livingstone, and for our first visit we had booked to swim the “Devils pool”.  As we arrived at our pick up point, the rather swanky Royal Livingstone Hotel, our taxi had to take a detour around a giraffe that was stood munching on some trees on the driveway!  The Royal Livingstone hotel is located on the Upper Zambezi river, right at the top of the Falls, and you can see the spray rising from the falls.  A short boat ride took us to Livingstone Island, an island perched right on the edge of the falls and where old Dr Livingstone first saw the falls (after paddling in a dugout canoe to get there).  

Livingstone Island is the dark gren patch of trees in the centre of this picture

Livingstone, I presume?

 We were given quick tour of the island, and peered over the edge to see the view Livingstone would have had.  

Long way down!

Then we changed into our swimming costumes, at which point I realised exactly what I was about to do….. Our guide threw a stone into the water about ten feet upstream “aim for that”, he said as he started swimming and being swept downstream towards the edge of the falls.  I was relieved that the water was actually quite warm, but not so happy about the current and the proximity to certain doom!  Louise lost her shoe which bobbed happily to its own impending doom “Sod the shoe, Save yourself”, I cried!  Thankfully it was masterfully saved by the guide who seemed unconcerned about said impending doom as he swam full strength to the edge of the falls!  We reached the outcrop of rock that we had aimed for and clambered along the rocks to the Devils Pool. 

 The pool is a natural infinity pool, with a submerged rock ledge that you can sit on and peer over the edge – just don’t lean too much! 

 

Yeah, just lounging around on top of Vic Falls :)

 After posing for photos we braved more certain doom to swim back to the island and were treated to an awesome “you’re still alive” breakfast!  

NOM NOM!

That evening we took a sunset cruise along the Zambezi, and sipped on Gin & Tonics whilst watching Hippos and crocodiles in the river.  Very colonial.. wot wot wot!

After having seen the top of the falls, the next day (Christmas eve) we went to see the falls from the bottom.  Even though the falls were not quite at full strength, they were still spectacular - huge, noisy and very wet! We spent a full day walking around the national park looking at the falls, and walking along the bridge which is the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.  After yesterday's excitment I didn't fancy the Bungee jump from the bridge!

Our Christmas day was somewhat un-traditional, and started with a leisurely canoeing trip along the river a few miles upstream from the falls and getting close up (but not too close, thankyou very much) to Hippos and crocodiles!  My Christmas lunch consisted of a nice juicy burger and chips!  For the evening we returned to the Royal Livingstone Hotel and sat on the decking drinking more G&Ts and watching the sunset over the Falls (jolly good!)

After four fantastic days in Livingstone it was time to return to Lusaka, and this time it was a “business class” coach, complete with reclining seats!  We spent one more night in Lusaka then caught the plane into Lilongwe, Malawi, ready for the next leg of our epic adventure!  ……….